Caulk the bottom of the door against the cold (draft, brush)
A 1 cm gap under the front door lets in as much cold as a 10 cm hole in the wall.
Recommended Materials
- Door draft excluder (fabric)
- Adhesive door bottom (brush or bib)
- Scissors
Steps to follow
Step 1
The diagnosis: Close your front door. If you see daylight below, or if a sheet of paper slides without resistance, it's a thermal disaster. Cold air comes in as if the window were open.
Step 2
Solution 1: The Door Draft Excluder (The classic). It is a large fabric tube filled with moss or sand that is placed on the ground against the door. Advantage: No DIY, very effective. Disadvantage: You have to put it back in place each time you open the door (except the 'double' models which slide under the door).
Step 3
Solution 2: The Adhesive Brush Door Bottom. It is a wand with nylon bristles. Advantage: Ideal for irregular floors (tiles with joints) because the bristles adapt to the shape of the floor. Disadvantage: Allows some air to pass through the bristles.
Step 4
Solution 3: The adhesive door sill with flap (rubber). It is a soft rubber blade. Advantage: Completely airtight. Disadvantage: Can rub hard on the floor (noise) and wear out quickly if the floor is not smooth.
Step 5
Installation: Clean the bottom of the door with alcohol. Measure the exact width with the door closed. Cut the rod to the right size (hacksaw for the aluminum, scissors for the joint). Stick it so that it barely touches the floor (it should not block the door).
Frequently Asked Questions
Interior doors ?
Do NOT caulk interior doors (bedrooms, living room) if you have a VMC! Air must circulate under the doors (1 cm offset) for ventilation to work. Caulk only the front door and the garage/cellar door.
Precautions
- Do not block the gap (space under the door) of the interior doors if you have a VMC (air must circulate under the bedroom/living room doors).
- Check that the door closes properly after installation.
